Using common sense RV troubleshooting methods can narrow down the possibilities, helping you to figure out exactly what kind of repairs you need. RV distribution center troubleshooting can show whether the electrical problem is in the wiring, the outlet, or the circuit breakers, which service the electrical system that feeds into your appliance.
The problem could even be at the source in the campground or storage facility. Doing the diagnosing and repair on your own can eliminate expensive repair visits, ferreting out small problems you can fix yourself.
In this video, RV maintenance and repair expert Dave Solberg walks you through the process of RV distribution center troubleshooting. Specialized testers are important in checking circuits, and Dave shows you how to safely ground these testers to avoid sparking and shocks.
Tracking down the power through the RV will tell you exactly where the problem resides, which may save you hundreds of dollars in bills from needless repair visits. Use a non-contact voltage tester to ensure volts are coursing in the circuit breakers by removing the panel and clamping onto a ground surface. If all is good in the center, you should go to the appliance s giving you trouble. If power is flowing, the issue could be in the appliance itself.
You can verify this by checking the status of other v outlets. Next, Dave inspects power in the microwave. He says that most outlets located near water sources are ganged to a ground fault circuit interrupter. Should this be the case for your appliance, he recommends testing whether other circuits are connected. In the bedroom or bathroom, for example. So we know that these outlets are ganged, and we might have found our problem.
We have a full library of videos that can help you repair and maintain your RV electrical systems , including a distribution center overview that gives you a quick rundown of the center. Click here to cancel reply. I have the older model electrical box. My circuit breakers are all on. The fuses appear to be fine. My lights throughout the trailer are very dim and the exhaust fans are running slow.
My husband who is away at the time says the batteries may not be being charged from the converter box. If so, what do I do to check this and how would I go about ordering and replacing this? Hi, Dianna. Thanks for viewing the RV Distribution Center Troubleshooting video and posting the question regarding your low volt power issue. Your husband is probably right, the batteries are not getting charged properly which could be due to the converter, low voltage coming from the campground, and even weak batteries that will not accept a charge?
It could even be a situation where you are using too many volt operated items at one time for the converter to keep up. First we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV so we can identify the size of distribution center and how big the actual converter is. Then next step would be to verify there is volts coming into the RV from the outside source. If you have low voltage volt or less it will not keep up.
Are you connected to a 30 amp power source? And the last thing I would check is the condition of the batteries. In the mean time, try turning some of the appliances off and limit your volt usage. Another option would be installing LED lights that draw about 10 times less power?
RVIA says a properly working converter needs to show a minimum. Dirty batteries can seriously impede the charging circuit and can and will draw voltage directly off the battery. Good luck. We have a Forest River Salem Travel Trailer that is parked year round at a resort wtih 30 amp service.
The problem we are having is that our ceiling fans will run for maybe 5 minutes and then stop. The wall switch gets hot when the fan is running on high for the 5 minutes, running them on low they will keep running but the switch gets warm. Also, the AC when running on high trips the breaker switch, running on low it will keep going. We have a four slice toaster and that will not toast properly when using all four and if we have our griddle plugged in it will hardly toast at all, so we unplug the griddle to make toast.
And our microwave does not seem to putting out the power it should. We put in a new battery last year so that was fully charged. The fans are DC I believe. When I put a meter in the kitchen outlet and turn on the toaster the voltage drops. I checked the voltage at the post and it seemed ok with no load. Not sure what to do. It is really hard to get the rv guys out there to look at it as we did not buy the camper from them and they serve the buyers first.
Could this have something to do with the converter or maybe where the power cord comes into the camper? Hi Gary. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your power requirement issues.
The first thing you need to do is identify what components operate on volt power and what draws from the volt DC system. Next, what Amp draw you are getting from each appliance and component. Plug in your toaster, microwave, and any other appliance you might be running. The roof AC in your unit can draw up to 14 amps at peak and your converter is probably drawing amps trying to keep the batteries charged! You need to calculate what items are running such as the refrigerator amps , television amps , and anything else like clocks, computers etc.
Use a multimeter or simple analog electric tester and make sure you are getting volts from the campground source. This will also cause similar issues. Is the replacement of the cooling fan something an owner should try to repair? Hi, Steven. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and sorry about the issue with your converter fan. I would recommend upgrading to the newer digital model which will provide a cleaner power source, runs cooler, and is much quieter.
There is an overview video in the electrical section. My question is does this come with a built in surge protector or do I need to buy a aftermarket one and where would I install it at. Thanks Gary. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your surge protection question.
Your Starcraft comes standard with a 30 amp distribution center and minimal surge protection through common circuit breakers and volt fuses. This does not protect against low voltage as well, therefore I would recommend getting an aftermarket protector such as Surge Guard or Smart Surge from Progressive Dynamics. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. Typically your rig comes with a standard distribution center that would have circuit breakers for the volt systems and automotive type fuses for the volt systems.
Any ideas on cause? Hi Trent. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your electrical issue. How are you reading volts everywhere else, multi-meter, am-watt, or digital monitor? Typically a coach of this size is 50 amp so if you connect to shoreline power you have 2 legs that provide volts to each side.
What size is your Honda generator? I would guess your genset is too small to provide power to a 50 amp coach? Most of the surge protectors such as the Surge Guard will show voltage on the display.
This could be the pigtail version at the plug in, or a permanently mounted protector inside the electrical compartment? Hi, John. We would be happy to assist you; we just need some more information. I have been plugged into a 30 amp outlet at an RV park thats been around for 40 years. About 2 years ago my electricity started turning off and on alot when it was raining or moist outside, mainly during the night while not much was turned on.
Occasionally during the next year they would suddenly pop back on usually during the middle of the night the stereo would come on at full blast volume. I would turn the volume down to mute and then turn it off. A while later it would happen again…. This would happen several times during the night. The next day these items would stop working again. Every few months this repeats again. A couple months ago my electricity kept turning itself off and on again but more often. Several times an hour and when on my lights are continuously flickering.
Then 2 weeks ago the prongs on my plug melted in the outlet. The park replaced the oulet and I had a new plug end put on. Now my electricity turns off for hours at a time and then will turn itself back on for a brief moment, but then shuts off again.
I am a senior woman who lives alone on a limited budget. Does it sound like a converter issue, battery, electrical wiring or a bad outlet? Hi, Nora. Electric power turning on and off, issues when it rains, and prongs melting in the outlet are all serious issues that need to be addressed by a qualified technician. What typically happens at the older campgrounds is larger rigs come in needing more power and the campgrounds do not upgrade which causes these issues.
I am replacing the radio in my Rockwood TT. For some reason I am not getting a constant 12 VDC on the wire coming from the converter to the radio location. There is a red light at the location of the 15 amp fuse in the panel that glows when connected to the tester to read voltage. This is the same wire the previous radio was connected to before removal.
What am I missing. Hi, Larry. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your radio issue.
If that light is on, volt power is not going through the fuse to the connecting wire and ultimately the radio? Take a test light and ground the alligator clip to a metal component on the distribution center and touch each metal point of the top of the fuse.
The light should come on both sides, if not, the fuse or wiring is bad. Hi, James. If this is your fourth converter replacement, you need to stop swapping parts and find the problem! My first question is what symptoms did you experience initially that caused the first converter replacement? The only thing the converter does is charge the batteries which is on the volt DC side so turning on the microwave or the electric heater should have nothing to do with it?
Lead acid batteries must be charged every month with a multistage charge that is a high voltage initial Bulk charge that boils the acid and breaks up sulfation, then an equalizing and float charge.
To check your converter, use a multimeter and place the probes on the positive and negative post of the battery. Plug the unit in or start the generator and see if it goes from My suggestion, get a Battery Minder from Northern Tool instead of the archeic converter and just shut off the existing one and use the Battery Minder which will condition your batteries and last much longer.
It appears that my converter does not always engage when plugged into shore power. If I turn the appliance off, the DC drops out. The converter eventually engages although it takes numerous attempts with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and turning appliances on and off.
Any further ideas? We have a Frigidaire Galley refrigerator in our rv. It stopped working again today. Is there anything we could check ourselves??? This is a good one. I have a Attitude Eclipe fk toyhauler. My problem started about a year ago when the factory radio would not shut off but no sound would come out. We replaced it with a new Pioneer unit and wired it up exactly like the original.
My wife is a Micro mini soldering tech so we used the original plugs and wired all the wires in exactly like the old one they were the same. I started seeing an issue with the radio about a year ago couple years after we bought the trailer.
The original radio would not turn off but would also do nothing else. We purchased a Pioneer unit and wired it in both according to the old wiring diagram and the Pioneer one they were the same.
Seems to me something is putting vac on the yellow wire but not blowing the fuse has me stumped. And, why only on shore power and not on straight dc? We have a 33ft. We use it about 5 months during the summer and winterize it for the winter, disconnecting the battery and storing it at home in a warm, dry basement.
This season, I have noticed that the DC lights are dimmer than they ever have been. Any idea what the problem might be? Do we need a new battery? Thanks for your help. Hi Dianne. Thus the dimmer lights. I would recommend getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool which will connect to the batteries and send high impact waves into the battery and not only charge, but condition them and they will last longer and hold a charge longer.
You should also use this at the camper while connected for the summer as your typical converter will not have the multistage charge and your batteries will sulfate. I would suggest getting the Battery Minder and try it for a few months to see if your battery comes back to a better operating capacity, if not, you will need a new battery.
Another item I would install is LED lights as they will draw 10 times less battery power and your battery will again last longer! Not sure why your lights get brighter when you use the blow dryer since it uses volts from a completely separate source, unless you are not plugged in to shoreline and when you do to use the blow dryer the lights get brighter which means the converter has kicked on and charging the batteries…brighter lights.
I accidentally ran the microwave in my fleetwood pace arrow, while my air conditioner was on. It was on generator power. I need a wiring diagram for a magnetek 45 amp model power converter. Available in 35, 45 or 55 Amp models, Our upgrade kits are designed to replace Magnetek, B-W Manufacturing, Magnetek and Parallax or or Series lower converter-charger sections. No cutting or splicing required. What's new New posts New media New media comments.
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Thread starter Bob Buchanan Start date Sep 2, The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts. See posts with no answers. Bob Buchanan Well-known member. All day long, but as soon as I plug into shore I lose one. So, I would assume the generator is charging the battery instead of the inverter?
Keeping my current below When I plug into shore I am now relying on that inverter to do the charging. Now just a thought, if you have a bad cell in a battery it will have a hard time holding voltage thus requiring the charger to be on all the time with just a slight draw.
If I test the voltage and its low then we'll know where the issue lies. Click to expand SeilerBird Well-known member. Bob Buchanan said:. It is an older unit that "converts" part of the incoming power to DC and supplies the rest to the AC needs of your rig. The charger portion is archaic and not a three stage - so will soon boil your batteries down if you are not careful and watch them closely.
I also added a W inverter to use when boondocking. The charger is connected directly to the batteries and is plugged into one of the house outlets. Lou Schneider Site Team. Joined Mar 14, Posts 11, Tom, there's two ways to approach your converter problem. I like the series with the separate Charge Wizard myself because it leaves open the option of manually controlling the converter's output voltage.
The has the Charge Wizard built-in and is not easily modifiable. Or, if that's too pricy, get an appliance timer and shut off your existing converter for about 8 hours a day, preferably when you're not using much 12 volt power. My first 5th wheel had one of those crappy Magnetek converters, and I'd shut off the converter while I was at work and away from the rig during the day.
Or if you're not using the furnace, you can turn it off during the 8 hours you're sleeping.
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